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Practical Shoe Repairing 

G L. {Bower 


Member of ^he Courtesy Shoe Service 


"TS |02,3 


Copyright, 1923 

£y 

C. L. Bower. 



©C1A692657 


} 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


CONTENTS 

Tools That Are Necessary. 

Care of the Shoe Shop. 

Wax Ends.. 

Plain Hand Stitching . 

Bottom of the Shoe. 

Preparation of the Sole Leather. 

A Cement Patch on the Upper. 

Rips or Broken Seams on the Upper 

Counter Linings. 

Oiling the Uppers . 

Sharpening Knives . 

Lifts on Wooden Heels. 

Upper Ripped From Welt. 

Putting a Patch on Sole. 

Underneath Sole Patch . 

Cement Sole on Hand Turned Shoe. 

Repairing Heels. 

Nailing on Halfsoles. 

Halfsoles Sewed . 

Finishing . 

Toecaps . 

Repairing Ripped Shank . 

Stock and Advertising . 


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PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


TOOLS THAT ARE NECESSARY 

1. One Stand and Five Straight Lasts. 

2. One Long Rasp. 

3^ One Lip Knife. , 

4. One Strong Screw-driver to pry Heels, etc. 

5. One Peg Awl. 

6. Three Sewing Awls. 

7. One Welt Knife. 

8. One Square Point Skiving Knife. 

9. Two Hammers, Light and Heavy. 

10. One Knife Sharpener. 

11. One Pair Nippers. 

12. One Common Pair of Pinchers. 

13. One Nail Set. 

14. Small and Large Stretchers. 

15. One Hand Channel. 

16. Foot or Power Sandpaper or Finishing- 

Wheels and Brushes. 


— 6 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Care Of The Shoeshop 



SHOE Repair Shop Like 
any other shop should 
be kept clean at all 
times with every thing in its 
place and a place for every¬ 
thing. A man does not only 
accomplish more work in a 
well arranged shop but helps 
to secure the confidence of the prospective cus¬ 
tomer, as well. 

A man entering your shop for the first time 
usually gives it the once over; if it appears tidy 
he will have confidence that he will receive neat 
work. Too much attention can not be given to 
the care of your shop. 




PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Wax Ends. 

Today time is too valuable to sit down and 
make Wax Ends like the cobblers did fifty 
years ago. Therefore all reliable Finding 
Houses carry Wax Ends that are measured out 
and the flax broken by machinery. They cost 
but a few cents and all that is left to do to 
complete the Wax End is to separate the ends 
of the threads in half. Lay them on your 
knee about one inch apart, moisten the palm of 
your hand a very little place it on the two ends 
bearing down and roll them toward you, still 
bearing down roll them away from you till 
they meet twist and form one point. 

Then do the same with the other end and 
wax the whole well by rolling the threads from 
end to end. Take your bristle and split it from 
tTTe lower end as far as it will split easily. Take 
one end of the Wax End and place it between 
the split as far as it will go. Now roll it close 
together around the split ends of the bristle. 


— 8 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Make a small hole in Wax End close to end of 
bristle, pull bristle through hole so that the 
cords will hold together firmly. Wax connec¬ 
ting parts till the end will stand out stiff. 

Plain Hand Stitching 

Put the awl through the leather from the 
outside or right side, then put the left hand 
bristle through, then the right hand bristle 
Take hold of bristles and pull them through 
enough so you can take hold of the ends below 
the bristles and finish the stitch making it good 
and tight. Always sew toward you. 

Bottom of Shoe 

The bottom of a shoe is divided into four 
parts. The Heel, Shank, Ball, and Toe. The 
back of heel is called the sweep, the end clos¬ 
est to the shank is the breast of the heel, the 
bottom lift of the heel is called the top lift. 
The bottom of the shoe including the ball and 
toe is the sole. The sole between the bottom 

— 9 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


sole and welt is the middle or slip sole. 

The welt is the ribbon like strip of leather 
sewed around the bottom of the upper and in¬ 
ner sole to hold the sole. This type of shoe is 
called the welt shoe. Where the upper is 
lasted onto the inner sole without any welt the 
shoe is usually called a McKay or Standard 
Screw Shoe. 

The difference in makes can be disting¬ 
uished easily after one has practiced on a 
couple of pairs of the different makes. 

Preparation of the Sole Leather. 

Sole leather will give more wear if it is pre¬ 
pared right. The first thing to do is to put the 
leather in water and soak it until it is wet 
through. Then take the leather and stand it 
on edge so all the water will drain out; let it 
set about twelve hours. Keep a damp cloth 
over it so it does not get too dry to work easily. 
Leather in this condition cuts very easily; so 
being the leather is better to work the work 
will always be better. , 

—10— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


A Cement Patch On The Upper 

Take the shoe to be patched and tighten it 
on a stretcher cut a patch the size you want; 
skive the flesh edge of the patch all around. 
Set the patch on shoe draw a line around it 
take off patch and skive and sandpaper shoe 
set patch on again to see that it fits smooth. 
Take off the patch again and cement both the 
patch and shoe with leather cement. 

Let the cement dry until it turns white, 
then warm the patch and shoe over small 
flame. Now press the patch on firmly and 
smooth it down until it looks neat. 

Rips or Broken Seams On the Upper. 

If a seam is broken apart on the upper of 
the shoe cement both parts with rubber ce¬ 
ment. Let dry and press them together, being 
careful to get the parts back in their original 
position. Put on Patch Machine and sew, us¬ 
ing about ten stitches to the inch. Where the 
back seam is broken apart sew a double row 
—11— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


of stitches. A double row of stitches should be 
used on the vamp and toe cap seams. Always 
take the laces out of a shoe before trying to 
sew in a tongue that has been tom loose. 

Sewed patches should always be put be¬ 
tween the lining and upper of shoe if possible. 


Counter Linings 

The repairman should use a very soft dur¬ 
able heel lining such as chamois skin for repair 
work. This kind of lining will give satisfac¬ 
tion and at the same time enable him to do 
faster work thus making more profit. A lining 
of this kind will stay in place without being 
sewed. Give the lining a generous coat of 
rubber cement, do the same to the counter of 
shoe where lining fits. Set aside till both parts 
are about half dry then press lining in place 
and let it stand till completely dry. 


—12— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Oiling the Uppers 

This item appears small but is very impor¬ 
tant. The shoes should be thoroughly dry be¬ 
fore oil is put on. I have found Castor Oil 
very good for either dress or work shoes. It 
can be rubbed in very easily and if this oil is 
put on in the evening shoes can be polished 
next morning. 

Rats or mice will not molest shoes in store 
that have been treated with Castor Oil. 

Sharpening Knives 

A dry sandstone should be used. Hold the 
knife firmly giving it a quick even stroke from 
end to end. Have it lay almost flat on the 
stone otherwise you will have a thick blade 
coming to an edge all at once. This kind of 
blade cuts hard and must be sharpened every 
time it is used. When cutting rubber or com¬ 
position soles dip the blade in water and pull 
through the sole from end to end. Do not push 
knife through the sole as this some times loos- 

— 13 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 

ens the soles from the welt if the cement is not 
holding right. Also dip the knife in water 
when cutting rubber heels. 


Lifts on Wooden Heels. 

Take the remaining part of lift off of the 
wooden heel and see that the covering of the 
heel is well lasted down on the heel. The cov¬ 
ering is usually satin; celluloid; or leather. 
Now take a lift, lay it on the heel and put a 
five-eights eighteen guage brad in the center of 
the lift and one in each of the comers; then 
trim the lift at an outside angle, three more 
brads around the lift will be enough; as it is 
very important never to split a wooden heel. 
To avoid splitting the wooden heel never use 
any type of nail but a brad. Never try to put 
a rubber heel on a wooden heel; always use 
the panco composition in the ten iron thickness. 
Cement this type of heel first and then nail it 
with five-eights brads; dip your knife in water 


—14— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 

when cutting Panco composition. The Pan- 
co composition is the longest wearing material 
known for French heels. 

Upper Ripped from Welt 

When the upper is ripped loose from welt 
and the sole is still good, moisten the part of 
upper to be worked. Sew a row of stitches 
along the edge of upper. Channel the sole the 
distance the upper has broken loose, take heavy 
Wax End with bristle on one end only 
Knot one end and sew through channel in the 
sole leaving the knot on the welt side. Sew 
back through sole again locking end through 
stitch in the upper doing this over and over 
again until the upper is locked tight to the welt. 
Be careful not to wrinkle the upper. Cut olf 
knot laying on welt. Always sew toward you. 
Channel: the channel is a coarse, furrow, 
groove, or cut. 


—15— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Putting a Patch on Sole 

Putting a patch on a sole is very profitable 
if you are fast and accurate. If you figure on 
steady customers never nail a patch on a sole 
if you can help it; as this interferes with work 
on the shoe at some future time. The part of 
the sole that needs patch should be marked off 
with chalk to the most suitable shape to receive 
patch (using your own judgment). 

Then rasp; skive; or grind this part con¬ 
cave or at angle to receive patch. Cut sole 
leather patch to fit; rasp flesh side of patch 
until it fits level with the sole. Apply the leath¬ 
er cement to the prepared part of sole and 
patch; let the cement dry until white, then 
hold both parts over small flame until cement 
softens again then press firmly together and 
give it quick light taps with hammer. 


—16— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Underneath Sole Patch 

Very often a customer will ask to have a 
patch put underneath the sole instead of on 
the top. 

This job is very simple. All that is neces¬ 
sary to do is to cut out the size patch you need; 
then start from the edge of the patch that is to 
be exposed around the edge of the welt and 
skive it down gradually making it look like a 
half-round wedge. Put a knife between the 
old sole and the welt and cut the stitches away 
in the place the patch is to slip under. Slip 
patch under and put a couple six-eights bull¬ 
dog nails through the sole and patch to hold 
the patch in place while you trim it off around 
the welt. Then pull the nails out and draw 
your pattern line around the edge of sole for 
nailing. Nail the patch in place using six 
eights bull dog nails nailing through the outer 
sole patch and inner sole, letting the nails 
clinch on the last. Cut off all the nails that ex¬ 
tend out of sole. Hammer the nails down to 
the last again. Then finish and polish. 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Cement Sole On Hand Turned Shoe 

Owing to the price of hand turned sole 
work, there is only about one person out of 
twenty that will pay the price for a hand turned 
sole. Of course the best way to do the job is 
to turn the sole, but the next best way is to put 
on a cement sole. Use very light flexible close 
grained soles. Rasp the flesh side of the soles 
then level off the soles on the shoes using the 
sandpaper wheels being careful not to cut the 
old stitches in the soles. Give the shoes and 
soles a generous coat of leather cement. Let 
the cement dry then hold the soles and shoes 
over small flame and press them firmly togeth¬ 
er; trim the soles and then put four or five 
channel nails in the shank and three around 
the toe. Take the shoes to the finisher and put 
extra pains in finishing this type of a job. 


—18— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Repairing Heels 

After a customer leaves a pair of shoes to 
have the heels repaired the first thing to do is 
to notice which side the heels are worn the 
most. Take the height of the heel at the 
breast, (which is the end of the heel closest to 
the sole). This part of the heel is usually worn 
very little and it gives the original height of the 
heel. Then take off the amount of layers off of 
each heel that is worn. Cut off the nails that 
extend out of each heel. Hammer the nails in 
the remaining part of the heel in case they 
were loosened from the inner sole. Take the 
heel lifts and start to build the heel. If two 
lifts are all that is required to make the heel 
the original height, the first lift only needs a 
couple of nails to hold it in place. Then trim it 
with a knife to the size of the heel. Put on the 
top lift and put a nail in the center of the lift 
and one in each comer of the breast of the 
heel far enough from the edge to allow for 
trimming. Trim the top lift even with the one 
— 19 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


below it and put a nail in the center of the 
sweep of the heel, which is the end of the heel 
closest to the back seam of the upper. Two 
more nails will be enough for the inside of the 
heels as it was the outside that was worn down. 
Use your own judgment on the amount of nails 
put on the outside of the heel. If it is a work 
shoe I put two rows, and a dress shoe one row. 
Put them as close together as the texture of 
the leather will stand. Do the same with the 
other heel, then measure them to see they are 
the same height. Stand them on a table to see 
they are level and straight with the sole. Some¬ 
times you will have to bend the shank slightly 
to make the shoe stand level. This is caused 
from hammering the heel on the last. 

When you find the shoes stand straight and 


—20— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 

level your heels are built right. Finish and 
polish them and your heel job is complete. 

When putting on a rubber heel the worn 
lifts should be taken off the same as on the 
leather heel; take off the same amount of leath¬ 
er as the thickness of the rubber heel you are 
putting on; be sure to cement all rubber heels 
with rubber cement before attaching. 



—21— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Nailing On Halfsoles 

Take pattern paper, usually magazine paper 
is the best. Lay it on the sole having the out¬ 
side distance of the pattern about two inches 
from the breast of the heel and the inside dis¬ 
tance of the pattern about two and a quarter 
inches distance from the heel; hold pattern 
firmly and cut it off around the edge of the 
sole with fine part of rasp. Then cut off the 
old sole starting about where the shoe bends. 
Hold your knife at a very slight angle toward 
the outside sole. If held at this angle you will 
never cut the welt inseam or slip sole. Continue 
cutting off the sole until you come to where 
you started from. Take hold of the old sole 
with the left hand, hold it up and twist it 
slightly toward you and cut it off. You will now 
have enough old sole leather between the 
length of the pattern and the cut to make the 
joint. Now take paper pattern and cut out the 
soles. Lay pattern on the grain side of the 
bend and draw a pencil mark around it about 
— 22 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


a sixteenth of an inch larger than the pattern. 
Now turn pattern over and mark out the second 
sole. Skive off the soles at the joint ends start¬ 
ing about five-eights of an inch from the end of 
the sole. Don’t skive it too thin but leave 
enough thickness of the grain to make a secure 
joint. Always skive on the flesh side of leather. 
Now go back to the shoe and cut the 
joint. Lay the half sole on the shoe, scratch 
off the shank where the joint is to start. 

Cut the joint by cutting off some of the 
leather on one side of the joint and then cut 
off some on the other side of the joint. This 
leaves a hump in the center of the joint which 
cuts easily. Now lay the sole on the joint and 
see that the joint is about the same thickness as 
the sole, as the after grinding of the joint on 
the grain side of the leather weakens it mater¬ 
ially. Then nail your joint. Don’t put the 
nails too close together and see that the sole 
fits all around the shoe. Now take a piece of 
coarse sandpaper or a rasp and rasp off welt 


■23— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


edge of shoes and soles. Give the shoes and 
soles a generous coating of rubber cement. 
Let the cement dry; then press the sole to the 
shoe seeing that the sole of shoe stands out 
straight and flat. Take pinchers and press the 
welt or slip sole to the sole all the way around 
the sole. Now trim off the sole even with the 
welt or slip sole; now put the shoe back on the 
last; take your knife and scratch pattern line 
around the edge of the sole about one eighth 
of an inch from the edge. Now take the peg 
awl and peg pattern holes around the pattern 
line about three-eights of an inch apart. Now 
nail, using bull dog nails if it is a welt shoe; or 
holdfast nails if it is a McKay or standard 
screw shoe. Slant the nails slightly towards 
the center of the sole; as you must never nail 
the sole to the upper or welt of the shoe. T his 
would spoil the shoe. Always put your hand 
in the shoe and see that the nails are all well 


—24— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 

clinched and that the inner sole lays flat and 
even. Stand the shoe up. If the sole lays flat 
and straight the job is O. K. Finish off the 
sole on your sandpaper wheels giving the 
shank corners of the joint an oval effect. 

Half soles Sewed 

Cut your paper pattern the same as for the 
nailed sole—also cut out the new soles and 
joint the same. Then pick out the old stitches 
in the welt, seeing that all the welt is good and 
tight. If any part of the welt is weak it should 
be replaced or resewed. Then cement the 
soles and shoes the same as for nailing. When 
dry press the welt to the soles firmly all around 
the shoe. Trim off sole even with the welt and 
take hand channel tool (as the knife for this 
purpose was given up long ago) and make a 
channel around the shoe just about under the 
old awl holes in the welt. See that the chan¬ 
nel is deep enough to bury the stitches. The 
sole is now prepared for the curved needle 
stitcher machine. If sewed by hand set your 

— 25 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


shoe with the heel of it away from you. Take 
a six or seven cord wax end and start to sew 
at the joint. Sew toward you and push the 
awl through the sole into the old holes in the 
welt (providing the factory machine stitches 
were not too close together). If such is the 
case skip a hole each stitch; see that your awl 
is not too large as the threads should be good 
and tight in the awl holes. Don’t pull the right 
hand thread hard enough to pull the lock of 
the thread out on the welt. If the awl is sharp 
and pushes through hard jab it in a piece of 
resin soap. 

Always put bristle of wax end through the 
welt first—then follow the other end through 
sole and pull both bristle ends through far 


-26— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


enough so you can finish the stitch by pulling 
on the wax ends a few inches beyond the bris¬ 
tle. After the sewing is complete rub down 
channel or groove and finish on the sandpaper 
wheels. Be careful not to trim off the welt as 
this makes the shoe hard to repair the next 
time it is brought into your shop. Then put on 
finishing ink and buff and polish. 



—27— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Finishing 

Finishing by hand is a thing of the past. 
Although some men insist on it. However this 
type of worker never gets very far financially. 
To accomplish anything worth while the finish¬ 
ing must be done on a finishing shaft consis¬ 
ting of different shaped sand wheels; buffing 
and brush wheels. Nothing set in writing 
could enable you to learn how to do finishing. 
However it is easily learned with practice. If 
you use your eyes and are awake to the fact 
that each sole or heel must be shaped the same. 
I might suggest never to sandpaper too much 
welt when finishing sole and to sand round 
edges on the joint of a half sole instead of the 
square edge commonly used. 


—28— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Toecaps. 

Now we have something that takes a con¬ 
siderable amount of practice. How you put a 
new toecap on a shoe depends on what type of 
shoe you are to put it on. We will take a Mc¬ 
Kay or standard screw shoe first. If the shoe 
is not to be resoled loosen the sole back about 
half ways pull the sole back to the shank and 
put a tack in it to keep it out of the way. Take 
a sharp pointed knife and cut the toecap seams 
to remove the cap. Use the old cap for a pat¬ 
tern as it is never damaged around the edge; 
cut out your new caps out of a heavy piece of 
upper leather. Cement the toes of the shoes 
also the flesh side of the new caps with rubber 
cement. Let the parts dry. Take the new cap 
and start to press it to the toe of the shoe where 
the old seams were cut. As you keep pressing 
it on towards the tip be careful you are getting 
it on straight so you won’t have to pull it off 
again. When you have it pressed down on the 
toe as far as the tip, last both welt side ends 

— 29 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


of the cap under the shoe with one tack in each 
side. Then last the tip end under with one 
tack. Make cuts in the remaining loose parts 
of the cap so the cap can be pulled under easily 
without making any wrinkles on the edge of 
the cap. After it is lasted under well and tack¬ 
ed, nail the sole back in place. Place stretcher 
well up in the toe and tap the toe cap all 
around making it as shapely as possible. 

Now we have the welt shoe to recap. I 
have made some study on this job and have a 
simple way that is all my own; it is easier than 
the ordinary way as you do not have to take 
off the old welt around the toe of the shoe and 
then sew it back on again. My way is as fol¬ 
lows: Take a paper pattern and lay it over 
the toe and down to the sole. Trim the pattern 
off around the bottom of the sole. Then cut out 
the toecap not using very heavy leather, take 
the shoe to the finisher and sandpaper the old 
toecap all over, seeing that the cap seams are 
ground down level with the vamp. Stab a hole 
thru the sole and welt close to the upper on 
— 30 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


each side of the shoe about half an inch from 
the old cap seams towards the heel. Give the 
cap and shoe a generous coat of leather cement 
(including the welt around the toe). When 
dry, punch holes in vamp seam end of cap the 
same as they were in the old cap; now take 
about one foot of small guage copper wire and 
twist a shoe button on one end of it; pull the 
wire thru one of the holes in the sole. Then 
warm the shoe and cap over small flame and 
press the cap down over toe of the shoe and 
flat down on the welt. Take the wire and pull 
it around the cap, drawing the cap in towards 
the inseam as much as possible. Put the other 
end of the wire thru the remaining hole in the 
sole and fasten the end. Now the cap is lasted 
and cemented; trim the cap off around the 
welt, then trim the leather laying on the welt 
down to a feather edge. Then sew the cap 
down to the welt either on the sole stitcher or 
by hand; take wire off of the shoe and let the 
shoe stand a couple of hours before applying 
the finishing ink. 


—31— 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


Repairing Ripped Shank. 

When repairing a shank where the stitches 
are ripped away from the welt, first see if the 
shoe is in fairly good condition or if it is near¬ 
ly worn out. If the latter is the case it is not 
necessary to sew it in place. Simply make a 
channel about an eighth of an inch from the 
edge. Nail it down with channel nails. Ce¬ 
ment channel with leather cement. Rub chan¬ 
nel with the handle of your hammer, smoothing 
it off so the nails do not show. If the shoe is 
worth future repair, prepare channel as before 
mentioned. Take wax end, sew down shank 
with plain stitch, then cement it and rub it off 
with the handle of your hammer. 

Stock And Advertising. 

From my own experience I have found that 
the best and cheapest way to advertise a shoe 
repair shop is to do neat work and use the best 
stock. If you use this system you will be hire- 
ing men when your competitor with the cheap 

— 32 — 


PRACTICAL SHOE REPAIRING 


stock and cheap prices finds it hard to keep 
himself busy. Of course you must practice to 
do neat work, as a set of lessons on paper can 
only help you along. But you cannot go wrong 
by using the following stock in your shop: For 
men’s work use the U. S. Leather Company’s 
1-3 pound Clear Neport Bends. For ladies’ 
work use 10 pound L and M Clear Bends. For 
composition soles use the Panco Products. For 
top lifts use HHH Monarch Lifts. 



—33— 










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